   Like, Follow, or Subscribe for VW Parts Deals & Sales Alerts  VW Parts & Tech Help for Aircooled Volkswagen Folks!We serve the VW parts and VW Tech needs of owners of aircooled VW Beetle, Volkswagen Bus, Karmann Ghia, Type 181 Thing, VW Type 3 Squareback / Fastback / Squareback, and Type 4 VW. Tech Tips, project advice, and quality parts for VW Restoration, VW Performance and Custom Aircooled VW projects. |  Choosing the Right Distributor for your VW Aircooled VW owners have an assortment of options when choosing a distributor for their engine. If you only look on the surface it seems simple: The “obvious” choice is the Bosch 009, right? Not necessarily. Once you do a little research, you’ll find a variety of stock units (including the SVDA unit), as well as the Bosch 009, 010, and 050 series, and finally the Mallory, MSD, and the age old Magneto. So which one is “best”? Each of these units is excellent – for the right application. In this article, I will clarify the right time and application for each option available. You can read the entire straight through, or skip directly to your area of interest using the quick links below: Before we rush ahead, we are going to use some terminology, we may as well define it for you so you
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Aircooled Volkswagen enthusiasts have quite a few carburetor options. Performance increases that can be gained by going with aftermarket carburetion are a common consideration, but without a little guidance, you can end up with nightmares associated with poor carburetor selection or poor tuning. In the aircooled VW hobby world, it is easy to get confused by the volume of available, and often times conflicting information. There are a number of aspects to consider when upgrading your fuel system and selecting the best set of VW carburetors for your engine and driving needs.
Nitrous oxide can be used in your VW engine to create more horsepower. All engines operate under the same principles: better breathing, plus more fuel in a denser vapor equals more power. Using nitrous is not a whole lot different from using a bigger carburetor, a better manifold, a supercharger, or a turbocharger — all are methods to increase the amount of oxygen available for combustion. The air you and your engine breathe is made up, at sea level, of 78% gaseous nitrogen, 21% gaseous oxygen, and just 1% other gases. Nitrous oxide (N2O) is a liquid created by chemically bonding 2 molecules of nitrogen and 1 molecule of oxygen. When the nitrous oxide goes into your engine, the heat of combustion breaks the chemical bond which releases the oxygen and makes it available in a relatively high gaseous concentration compared to the concentration found in normal
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Should you run Synthetic Oil in your VW? Synthetic Oil: Whether it’s evil stuff or good stuff depends on who you talk to. And a lot of what you hear from backyard mechanics is rumor and myth. Myth # 1 is the claim that you don’t have to change Synthetic oil as often as regular motor oil. Remember when Mobil 1 said you could go 25,000 miles between oil changes with synthetic oil? Notice they haven’t said that for a good number of years? Keep that thought on the back burner for now… Myth #2 is that synthetic oil causes oil leaks. In this article I’m going to try to dispel these myths for you with the cold hard facts about the differences and similarities between dino vs. synthetic oil. Let’s talk first about what “dino” oil is (Dino is short for Dinosaur, which is when it started forming). Dino oil
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Increase your VW Engine Power with Proper Piston, Cylinder, and Ring Operation The way that pistons, cylinders, and rings work together to support engine power is often misunderstood or mysterious to enthusiasts. But anyone who wants to get the most fun and drivability out of their VW engine should take the time to understand how pistons and cylinders operate in relation to the air flow through their engine system. Oxygen availability is a well known limiting factor in the combustive process. Maximize the volume of air and exhaust that can be moved through your VW engine, and you increase the potential for more power. Performance engine builders and do-it-yourself VW engine enthusiasts tend to focus on modifications designed increase airflow volume, or overall air capacity of their engine system. These modifications include cylinder head work, increasing camshaft size, improving carburetor intake/exhaust, running the engine at higher RPMs, etc. But there is more
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After springing for a set of carburetors, some people bolt them on, and are “pleased” with the results. Others are upset by a backfiring, or smoke belching monster. In either case, spending the time to properly jet a set of dual (or single) carburetors is a worthwhile task, since receiving “perfect out-of-the-box” carburetors is one of the biggest myths in the VW industry! Proper jetting varies depending on engine size, elevation, cam overlap, etc. Jetting is so specific to an individual engine that two identical engine combos with the SAME carbs can even require different jets! The moral of the story is: With your engine combo, carb information and driving elevation, we can advise and get you CLOSE, but to know that your carbs are jetted optimally, you will need to spend the time necessary to dial it in. It IS worth doing for drivability, engine life, and mpg
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Many people do not understand the importance of the following the appropriate steps to prepare an engine to run for the first time. Following proper VW Engine Break In Procedure can mean a long life or fast death for a high VW performance engine. The information in this article can also be a useful guide to starting a VW engine that has been sitting for a long period of time, since it ensures proper oiling before the engine fires up.
Building a ‘Big’ Aircooled VW Engine (Type 1) This article is a guide to the theory and choices involved in building performance engines for Aircooled VWs (Type 1). There are careful decisions to be made with regard to the engine size and components that are “right” for what you have in mind. The Beetle (and other Type 1 VWs) are fairly light cars. Relatively speaking, it doesn’t take a lot of power for you to really get moving! 140 HP will keep even the Mustang GT’s in your rear view mirror on the street, and 180 HP will eat Corvette’s and Vipers for lunch all day.
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