Have you been asking the question "I want to make my VW faster; what modifications should I make and in what order?" or, "I want to make my car more fun to drive; what can I do?"

The answers will depend somewhat on your budget, but we have also created a guide that presents modifications in the order that will maximize the benefits per dollar spent! Most of these mods are easily reversible, and do no damage to your car. These changes will give the biggest grins/dollar from your car! Of course there are more involved mods that also give a lot of fun/$, but this article focusses on BOLT-ON mods that you can do easily in a day or so.

Suspension and Shifter Modifications

Shift Coupler, Shift Rod Bushing, and Quick Shift Kit: Approx $20 and 3 hours work. Unless you KNOW they were changed recently, the shift coupler and shift rod bushing in your car ARE SHOT, so replace them. The quick shift kit ($7) will shorten the shift throw and make driving more fun.

Custom Shifter: 20 minutes. Be very careful when choosing a custom shifter - most are junk! Plan on spending $100 for a good one; Currently, the only shifters we recommend besides the stock shifter (with or without a quick shift) are the Scat Shifters (which we carry) and the Gene Berg shifters (these you can get one at Geneberg.com). The ORIGINAL Hurst shifters are also excellent, but they haven't been made in over 20 years, so used is the way to find these (swapmeets and Ebay).

Front and Rear Swaybars: Plan on 1 hour per bar (Super Beetle front bar takes a little longer). If you add swaybars, upgrade the one in front AND add one to the rear to keep the handling balanced. The standard heavy duty swaybars will be fine for most people, but if you plan on hill climbs or Auto-X, make sure that you get adjustable swaybars so that you can tune your suspension to get the last inch of performance which many of the other guys won't be able to get. There are two types of rear suspension on VWs; IRS and Swing Axle. IRS should use a swaybar, but Swing Axles use something called a Camber Compensator.

Convert to front disc brakes: Plan on 3 hours. Super beetle and 4-lug STD Beetles alike will really benefit from this upgrade (especially if you are planning on increasing your driving speed with engine and suspension modifications). There are two distinct advantages to disc brakes:

1. They are self adjusting (VW drum brakes need to be manually adjusted).
2. In wet weather, you will have great stopping power because they are "self cleaning" and shed themselves of excess water and dirt. Drum brakes do not do this.

5-lug wheel owners are stuck with a $550 kit to convert to discs, but they are currently only available for the Link Pin front ends (65 and older), not Ball Joint. It's important to note that no master cylinder change is required. Consider adding stainless brake hoses while you are at it; these swell less for a firmer pedal and better feel. 4-lug car owners should also consider changing rear brakes to the type 3 units; scrounge the junkyard and get everything from the backing plate outward. They bolt right on and are about twice as effective as your stock units, and retain your stock E-brake; be sure to replace the brake shoes and wheel cylinders, and check the drums to make sure they are within spec. If you do not want to upgrade the entire rear brake package to Type 3, there's another trick you can use! We only recommend this if you have a "mismatch" of front and rear tires (if your rear tires are significantly larger then the front tires). If this is the case, install the Super Stopper rear wheel cylinders to provide massive braking power and restore the front/rear braking balance to your car. For drum brake owners, we also have added our Super Stopper brake shoes (front and rear) which increase braking power even with your existing drum brakes. These Super Stopper brake shoes are an excellent alternative to the much more expensive and complex disc brake conversion.

Add a Custom Steering Wheel: 1 hour. The smaller the steering wheel, the more difficult the steering effort, but the quicker the steering response! Stock wheels were sized at 15" so grandma could drive the car when shopping; you are most likely stronger than Grandma, so you can take advantage of a smaller steering wheel, and you will also get more choices in color and style. Years ago, the Formuling France wheel was the "standard", but that company went out of business, so finding a new Formuling wheel is next to impossible. Nowadays the standard performance wheel for your car is the Motorace. If you want a step up in style and class, the best steering wheel available on the market is made by Nardi, a hand-made Italian steering wheel. The Nardi Classic and Nardi Replica wheels are absolutely gorgeous and are available in several sizes, grips (wood, leather, or both wood/leather on the same wheel), and spokes (3 or 4 spoke, black, polished, chrome, satin, etc). We don't recommend adding a small custom wheel on Busses, since steering effort becomes too difficult, especially in parking lots (You need the leverage)! You can install them on Vanagons if you have power assist steering.

Seats: Approx 3 hours. The stock seats were budget minded and are anything but supportive and/or comfortable for faster than stock driving. There are several easy swap out seat options. We have full interior upgrade kits or individual seat/track systems in the seat section of our catalog.

Shocks: All four in 1 hour - that's the time AFTER you get the bolts loose! Don't go overboard here! SuperBeetles can use gas strut inserts in the front, which give a higher performance ride (stiffer) -- but Standard Beetles MUST stick with oil shocks (unless you like having your fillings rattled loose!) Don't bother with heavy duty shocks either (same problem). Trust me, it isn't worth it. If you are trying to install your new front shocks onto the lower shock mount and the shock doesn't fit, the steel sleeve from your old shock is seized on the mount and must be removed. A grinder, heat, and penetrating oil. In the rear, use low-pressure gas shocks. High-pressure gas shocks are available, but the ride is stiffened a good bit, and they WILL RAISE THE HEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE BY ABOUT 1 ½". This can be useful if your bus/bug has the rear-end sag that is common on some high mileage vehicles. But, if your car is "normal" in appearance, the addition of these shocks will make your car look like a 70's retro-ride (remember the High-Jackers?).

Front suspension: Check to make sure your steering components are not worn out or sloppy. (If your Super Beetle suffers from a "shimmy problem" , it will be addressed in a separate article). If the front of the car is lowered, you MUST add caster shims between the lower beam tube and the frame head of the car (a 15-minute job) to correct front-end geometry. This will also make the car run nice and straight at higher speeds; slightly increased steering effort is needed at parking lot speeds.

Engine and Transmission Modifications

Synthetic Gear Oil: 30 minute job. If you are sick of difficult shifting when it's really cold, replace that dinosaur gear oil with a good synthetic. It will shift like butter in even the coldest temps, and give a slight increase in mileage too! If you have a new transmission, do NOT use synthetic initially (during the break in period). You can start using synthetic after your new tranny has about 6000 miles on it.

Fuel Hose: 1 hour job. I strongly recommend cloth braided fuel hose. Every 6 months, you should inspect it! Bend it over 180 degrees, and if it cracks or is stiff, REPLACE IT. Leaking fuel hose is the #1 cause of those smoldering VWs you see on the side of the road. Don't be a statistic. Install the fuel filter next to the transmission; you should NOT have a filter between the pump and carb. The added weight of the fuel in the filter at THIS location can wiggle the fuel fitting in the carb loose, and it will pop out spraying gasoline all over your hot engine AND THE DISTRIBUTOR (sparks + gasoline = empty wallet + tears + no more car) while the engine continues to run. Don't say we didn't warn you!

Replace Points and Condenser with a Compufire: 20 minutes to install. Contrary to popular "wisdom", you are not going to get a huge power increase with this part. You WILL get a no maintenance item (unless you love adjusting points and timing), which gives rock-steady ignition timing under all conditions. In my opinion, this is a must-do modification even for stock cars! Getting the rubber grommet into the hole properly is the hardest part of the job (I'm not kidding).

Upgrade your Distributor: this upgrade usually astounds VW drivers! The SVDA Distributor is the way to go (we have models for almost every application), and gives a "stock appearance" to the engine. If you have a 34 PICT carb, this is the distributor for you. Another 3 mpg over the original push/pull or pull only distributor, not to mention getting rid of the the dreaded 009 flat spot! If you want the BEST, there is no equal to a Mallory Distributor (be sure to get vacuum advance for best results).

Replace your stock pulley with an Aluminum Degree Pulley: 30 minutes to change it out. Doing so will make ignition timing much easier. The stock pulley comes in five different versions using notches for timing marks. The notches are in so many different configurations and since pulleys may have been switched several times during the life of an engine, you can't know what you have unless you measure it, which is a tedious process. The easy way out is to put the Aluminum degree pulley on, and instantly know where you are at. They are also pretty to look at :0)

Add a CDI to your Ignition System: under an hour. The Capacitive Discharge Ignition provides a major ignition upgrade, and can be installed in under an hour. Spark plugs last 4X longer and plug gap can be opened up to .040". In return for the investment in a CDI, you get 3-4 mpg better mileage and your starts with a quick turn of the key even on cold mornings (instead of 2-3 seconds of cranking before it fires up). SMOOTH running, even before it's warmed up! Must be used with a set of Super-Mag Plug Wires (the higher energy produced by the CDI will overwhelm stock or used wires), and complete the ensemble with a new set of NGK plugs (better than Bosch).

Replace the Ignition Cap & Rotor: 3 minutes (give or take). Bosch is the ONLY brand of these parts that I recommend you install. Leave the clear distributor caps for the show cars (they run like crap). Make sure you switch wires one at a time!

Replace Muffler with 1 3/8" Exhaust Header: Plan on 3 hours if it's your first time. This is an easy bolt on item. Use a GERMAN muffler kit, or flange kit for a no-leak install. Stick to 1 3/8" unless you have some pretty decent flowing heads, AND have removed the heater boxes (they are a restriction) OR used a high-flow set of heater boxes. The hardest part of a header installation is getting your old muffler off without breaking the exhaust studs! You'll need a muffler to use with this header. Our personal favorite for stockish engines is the hide-a-way muffler which offers superb ground clearance and very quiet operation.

Add an Oil Filter: The stock engine has a strainer, but not a filter. You can extend your engine's oil change intervals from the original 1000 miles, to 3000 miles by adding a real oil filter. There are two ways to do this:

• Use our filter pump assembly. But this will not fit 68-71 busses or Type 3s
• Use our full flow filter kit. We have a version of this kit to fit all engines including 68-71 busses and Type 3s. The full flow filter kit requires that the engine case be drilled/tapped or you can use our return adaptor for a completely bolt on solution.

Install Ratio Rocker Arms: 1-2 hour installation time. If you can adjust valves, you can install these. They MUST be used with shorter pushrods. We recommend 1.4 rockers (which DO work on stock engines). 1.25 rockers give you almost no gain for your work; waste of effort. 1.25's work well with some high performance cam shafts but you have to know what you're doing! 1.4's will really wake up a stock engine, especially if it's a dual port, and if you have additional carburetion. Replace your valve cover gaskets at the same time. If you have problems with leaky valve covers, make sure that you use genuine VW valve covers and bails.

Have your flywheel lightened: (engine removal is required for this modification) If you are uncoordinated at driving a stick, or have a HEAVY car (baja, bus or type 3 or 4), this modification is NOT for you. The lightened flywheel will allow the engine to rev faster. Do NOT add a heavy duty clutch unless you get an 8-doweled crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel on tight! Don't forget that changing flywheels requires you to re-set the endplay, and it's strongly recommended (by me) that you change your flywheel seal (main seal) and o-ring. It is also a good idea to put in a new gland nut. Don't forget to have flywheel shims on hand and an end play tool. You are in there, so you may as well do it. Check your clutch while you're at it, too!

Carburetion: VW engines are EXCEPTIONALLY under-carbureted. You have many options, all of which require more exhaust flow (you did that already, remember? -- see "Replace Muffler with 1 3/8" Exhaust Header").

• First option is the new dual solex 35mm carburetors, with or without chokes. For stockish engines with a worn out stock carb or for someone who just wants a little bit more performance without the headaches of constant carburetor maintenance, these are the carbs to get. Currently they are only available for dual port engines.
• Single port engines should use these dual-single bbl carbs. This kit has a steel crossbar (not center-pull and NOT aluminum) linkage.
• Third option is the center mount 2bbl, which can be a SOB to tune, and requires manifold heat. Jetting this sucker can take a while, but if/when you get it right, it's a fantastic setup. It ONLY works on upright engines (type 1 and 2), since type 3 and 4 engines don't have manifold heat, and a center mount carb WILL ice up and be a nightmare to drive!

Dual 2bbl carbs. MORE options - Dellorto DRLA's (the IDF counterpart), and the Weber. Weber makes the IDF as their main carb, and the IDA, which is primarily a race carburetor set. You also have the Weber DCNF, and Solex 40P11 (used on old Porsches).

• IDFs come in 40, 44, and 48mm sizes. Nice carbs for street cars, but the factory making them has closed down so availability is getting scarce. These are also the carburetor of choice for off road cars! Off road cars should run a center mount (instead of duals), either progressive or IDF.
• IDAs are race carburetors. Contrary to popular opinion, these CAN work very well on the street! Not much of a progression circuit, so in unmodified form, they are either off or on! (Idle or full throttle). Modifications properly done will make them more "driveable", and once modified they work VERY well. Many guys routinely report 8-12 mpg (yikes!) but in these cases they are jetted all wrong. 25-27 mpg on the highway is correct when they are properly set up, even on large engines. However, IDAs do not have provisions for vacuum advance which we feel is a requirement for a true street carburetor.
• Solex 40P11 are old carbs, rather rare, and work very well IF they aren't worn. Similar to the IDF and DRLA in appearance and function.
• DCNFs are getting to be very tough to find parts for, and easily flood if the going gets rough. The cost of the air cleaners, linkage and intake manifolds individually for the DCNF can be very expensive, so we recommend that you DON'T buy a set of DCNFs unless you are getting everything with it! Your best bet on dual carbs for the street now are the Dual Weber IDF, in 40, 44, and 48mm sizes. We offer these with a "setup and adjust" option to minimize your headaches, just bolt them on and go!

I run either the stock carb, or any of the dual 2bbl carburetors. I see no point in dual 1bbls, so I skip these. Venturi size (the narrowest part in the carb throat) should be about 3mm smaller than intake valve on stock or mild engines, and about SAME size as the intake valve on high output engines. All 2bbl Dellorto and Weber carbs have changeable venturis, so you can match the carburetor to the engine somewhat by tuning and re-sizing - but don't expect a set of 44 Weber's to work on your stock 1600 cc engine!. Remember, venturis and jets are expensive, so it's best to start with your carbs in the right range. Re-jetting a set of dual 2bbls will cost about $100-150. It ain't cheap and it takes HOURS to dial in…

From this point on, you are looking at much more involved engine modifications, which require engine disassembly or machine work. I'll leave those jobs for other articles!