1800cc Engine Combo, NO CASE MACHINING NEEDED (but heads must be bored!)
We have put together a parts list for our most popular engine combos to make shopping easier for you. Click HERE if you want to see a list of all our engine combos to choose from!
This list will give you a long block that is proven and tested to deliver! This particular engine combo is designed for a really broad torque curve, but does require head machine work.
This list is based on an 1800cc engine article we did a while ago, but we had a lot of repeated questions on the parts list, so that is what THIS article is for!
This 1800cc engine can be built with stock to mild heads, a mini-stroker crank, and super reliable THICK WALL 88mm P&Cs. These slip into the stock 1300-1600cc engine case, and only require that your heads are bored to the 92mm register. If you are buying new heads, just have them bored to the 92mm size and they’ll go right on. If you are re-using your heads, you’ll have to have them machined! Thick Wall 88s are thicker than the stock 85.5mm cylinders, so they will hold up even under the extra heat from Convertibles, THINGs, Busses, and Type 3s. Note that all of these applications are heavier, and have more restricted cooling air intake into the engine bay!
The 74mm crank is a drop in with no machining on the newer cases, but the older the engine case, there will be minor clearancing needed (to clear the rod bolts near the cylinder windows)
You can do this build with a stock carb if you want, but like the 1600cc build the engine will really wake up if you give it more exhaust and carburetion. The heads you select will depend on which carb(s) you use, and the cam you use is (as usual) selected last! We always feel that dual 2bbls (Dual 36 or 40mm DRLAs, or 40 IDFs) are the way to go. Also note that the exhaust system you are going to use will determine which heads to select! For example, if you are going to run 1 3/8″ exhaust, in our opinion you are limiting yourself to stock dual port heads, or L3 dual port heads. If you bump up to heads like our Panchitos dual port heads, you can run 1 1/2 or 1 5/8″ exhaust.
During the mock up stage, you’ll have to order cylinder base shims to get the engine’s deck height between .040-.060″; we target .050″, so if you are off +-.010″ it’s not a big deal.
Use this component list as a base; simply change the carbs, heads, and cam, for a wilder or milder engine as you see fit. Feel free to consult us for any recommended changes for your needs!
- Curil T sealant, used for case halfs, and all applications OTHER than cylinder bases.
- Dirko RTV, or Permatex RTV for the case to cylinder interface
- Magnesium Engine Case
- Full Flow Machining is strongly recommended, so you have a filter to extend engine life immensely!
- 74mm 4140 chromoly crankshaft w/VW journals OR
- 74mm 4340 chromoly crankshaft w/VW journals OR
- 74mm DPR Welded Forged crankshaft w/VW journals
- 5.325″ H-beam connecting rods
- Stock rods (5.4″), OR 5.4″ I-beams
You have to go into the rod length issue knowing there are benefits and drawbacks to each one. With the 5.325″ rods, you will have an engine which is stock width, and stock length push rods will work! But you will have crankshaft counterweight interference with the piston skirts. We narrow the skirt to achieve .040″ clearance. You can minimize this with the use of the 5.4″ rods, BUT this makes the engine wider and you’ll need longer than stock push rods.
Lifters must match the cam used! The cam you use needs to be chosen with the heads you are using, and the carburetor(s). The more carburetion you have the more cam you can use, since the increased carburetion will retain a smooth idle. If you want to keep the stock carb, use a “cheater” cam, such as
If you have increased your carburetion to a progressive or dual 1bbls, you can do something like
With dual 2bbls, don’t go bigger than the Engle W110 UNLESS you have increased your heads to something like our Panchitos Cylinder Heads. You cannot use a big valve head on any engine without a 1 1/2″ or larger exhaust. This is an example of where your choice of exhaust system will affect what engine you can have it bolted to! The Web Cam 163 Camshaft is another very good choice. Choose a 108LC for a beetle/ghia, but a 105LC for a Type 2 or Type 3.
- Engine gasket set with flywheel seal
- Main bearings for the new crank and new case (Standard)
- Rod bearings (Standard)
- Double thrust cam bearings
- (5) Main bearing dowel pins
- Bolt On cam gear
- (8) Stainless steel push rod tubes
- L3 Cylinder Heads if you are restricted to 1 3/8″ exhaust OR Panchitos Cylinder Heads if you can go 1 1/2 or 1 5/8″ exhaust
- 3.5qt Deep Sump is optional
- 88x69mm piston and cylinder kit be sure to bore the heads to the 92mm size, since these P&Cs use the super thick cylinder with a stock OD at the bottom!
- (2) Air deflector tins
- Cam plug
- Crankshaft gears and spacers
- Chrome vanadium lightened flywheel OR
- Economy lightened flywheel
Even a stock weight 8 doweled flywheel is fine!
(Re-use the ones you have if you want to!)
If there are items on this list that you would like more clarification on, please feel free to contact us (we’ll also update this article)!
Lastly, if there are other engine recipes you would like to see broken down, feel free to e-mail us, and we’ll get right on them!
Article Posted 11/15/15
Last Updated 4/30/20